tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1405576651020920367.post3057478278179240147..comments2024-03-09T05:53:46.954-08:00Comments on Bernard's Blog: Chrysler Coolant Leak - 3.2L and 3.5L EnginesBernardLhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09722619048888613647noreply@blogger.comBlogger331125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1405576651020920367.post-43067151623534011622024-01-07T10:11:31.904-08:002024-01-07T10:11:31.904-08:00I love your knowledge on motors and love your blog...I love your knowledge on motors and love your blog. I have a 1995 chrysler lhs and have removed the timing cover and belt, along with all pulleys and also removed the timing housing from the block. I bought the only kit from the chrysler dealer that they offered concerning the replacement of the o-ring or seals that surround the hole where water passes from block to water pump and water jackets (?) or vice versa. The casting on the back of the timing housing are like almost a 1/4" and are flat. They gave me actual o-rings. Are these correct or should they be flat seals?mlh6677https://www.blogger.com/profile/02716798028806363432noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1405576651020920367.post-82447218201623858472021-08-07T00:32:45.825-07:002021-08-07T00:32:45.825-07:002000 Chrysler Concorde 3.22000 Chrysler Concorde 3.2Hogie155https://www.blogger.com/profile/03709629383990582621noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1405576651020920367.post-60684472646583367192021-08-07T00:31:43.642-07:002021-08-07T00:31:43.642-07:00First thing to try is a new radiator cap. Mine has...First thing to try is a new radiator cap. Mine has failed twice causing overheating. Hogie155https://www.blogger.com/profile/03709629383990582621noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1405576651020920367.post-64405768569021435912020-12-18T06:03:02.217-08:002020-12-18T06:03:02.217-08:00so I have a 2002 Concorde limited with a 3.5 liter...so I have a 2002 Concorde limited with a 3.5 liter engine and I have a bad leak of antifreeze and water even when its cold. I found that there is a tiny hold next to where the thermostat housing goes. Could that be the problem and what is the best way to fix it?Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10732739975557781955noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1405576651020920367.post-55052326176284958832020-09-05T04:58:10.272-07:002020-09-05T04:58:10.272-07:00Hey Bernard.
Thank you for the response. In my ca...Hey Bernard.<br /><br />Thank you for the response. In my case it was the water pump that was failing. Needless to say that I was more than kissed about that because I had already gotten a timing belt and water pump service done on the car a little over 4 years ago, and that pump had barely 20k miles on it! Maybe the timing belt tensioner seized which caused the bearing in the pump to fail prematurely? 🤷🏿♂️ I don’t know. Either way i got another service done back in June, and so far so good (knocks on wood.) Ace of Spadeshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17348932475781391635noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1405576651020920367.post-40736585790854929562020-09-04T12:16:03.560-07:002020-09-04T12:16:03.560-07:00Sorry I didn't see your comment until now, Ace...Sorry I didn't see your comment until now, Ace. The water pump on those do have weep holes, but I would wager you are right about the heater tube being at fault because it will leak at the same spot as the water pump. I guess you've already had whatever it is fixed. BernardLhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09722619048888613647noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1405576651020920367.post-4993249872551432742020-06-07T19:16:17.670-07:002020-06-07T19:16:17.670-07:00Hello
I have a 2000 Dodge intrepid with the 3.2L ...Hello<br /><br />I have a 2000 Dodge intrepid with the 3.2L engine, and it has a small coolant leak near the front of the engine. I can see it start to drip onto the ground after I run the engine for about 5 or 10 mins give or take. I suspect that the O ring for the heater core feed pipe or the pipe itself is failing. However when I took it to a mechanic the other day, they said that the coolant was leaking out of the weep hole for the water pump. I had a timeIng belt and water service done on the car about 4 years ago and have since only put about 22k miles on it. So my question is, does the 3.2L engines have weep holes for the water pumps and if so where are they located? Could it be the water pump or is it more likely to be the heater core feed pipe and o ring? Is there a way I can find out for sure without taking off both the upper and lower intake manifolds?Ace of Spadeshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17348932475781391635noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1405576651020920367.post-89536878051984464972019-05-22T13:39:07.658-07:002019-05-22T13:39:07.658-07:00from Jacek - sorry for the mess after posting, it ...from Jacek - sorry for the mess after posting, it looked all great before postingAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12913134937849054347noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1405576651020920367.post-88292428232791352662019-05-22T13:37:01.799-07:002019-05-22T13:37:01.799-07:00from Jacek:
Just found Emissions Inspection Repor...from Jacek: <br />Just found Emissions Inspection Report at 118240 km ("new" type of inspection, no rollers)<br /><br />2 speed idle tailpipe emissions inspection results <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|<br /> | 2500 RPM | Idle |<br /> |---------------------------------|-----------------------------------------|<br /> | Limit | Reading | Result | Limit | Reading | Result |<br />----------|-----------|-----------|---------|------------|-------------|--------------|<br />HC (ppm) | 200 | 11 | Pass | 200 | 13 | Pass |<br />----------|-----------|-----------|---------|------------|-------------|--------------|<br />CO (%) | 1 | 0.01 | Pass | 1 | 0.01 | Pass |<br />----------|-----------|-----------|---------|------------|-------------|--------------|<br />RPM | 2250-2750 | 2420 | Valid | <1250 | 820 | Valid |<br />----------|-----------|-----------|---------|------------|-------------|--------------|<br />Dilution | 6 | 15.16 | Valid | 6 | 14.58 | Valid |<br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12913134937849054347noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1405576651020920367.post-40519377121466012462019-05-22T12:28:46.330-07:002019-05-22T12:28:46.330-07:00from Jacek:
After PCM replacement, there was only ...from Jacek:<br />After PCM replacement, there was only one code 55 (no more codes). Code 12 appeared after some 20 000 km after the replacement - together with the troubles described above.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12913134937849054347noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1405576651020920367.post-14587788781014748652019-05-22T08:15:15.553-07:002019-05-22T08:15:15.553-07:00from Jacek:
would like to add - the replacement PC...from Jacek:<br />would like to add - the replacement PCM mentioned above was bought at Chrysler dealer (cost = arm + leg). Beside checking the PCV valve as described in Detroit repair manual (clicks, sucking paper ..) at one point I disconnected/plugged the crankcase vent system - basically the engine was venting vapours to the atmosphere (like 50+ years ago). No difference.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12913134937849054347noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1405576651020920367.post-75501966274218266632019-05-22T05:00:52.967-07:002019-05-22T05:00:52.967-07:00from Jacek - would like to add to my previous post...from Jacek - would like to add to my previous post (just a few minutes ago), I went to Chrysler dealer to see if I have the latest PMC software. The dealer told me yes.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12913134937849054347noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1405576651020920367.post-31833849661491091592019-05-22T04:55:23.407-07:002019-05-22T04:55:23.407-07:00from Jacek:
’96 Chrysler Concorde LXi 3.5 engine,...from Jacek: <br />’96 Chrysler Concorde LXi 3.5 engine, right now 148 000 km (not miles) , bought 13 years ago at 46 000 km. Checked and replaced (needlessly) : ignition wires, spark plugs, TPS, throttle cleaned twice, MAP, had engine checked for vacuum leaks, crank position sensor, cam position sensor, EGR stuff, listened to injectors at idle using long steel rod, use injector cleaning fluid every 4 000 km, had injectors cleaned (without removal) on machine at garage I trust, checked fuel pressure 4 times (39.5 PSI at idle, jumps to 45-46 when briefly opening the throttle) checked injectors resistance (have Detroit repair manual), checked PCV valve, replaced coolant temperature sensor, intake air temperature sensor, idle air motor, ignition switch, checked all fuses, before reinstalling them greased up the “legs” with “electrical” dialectic colorless grease, removed two 40-pin connectors from PCM, greased up all pins with “electrical” dialectic colorless grease, reinstalled – made sure things are seated properly. Backed off Y-tube from upper intake manifold, inserted two sheet metals between Y-tube flanges and manifold, retighten the screws, drove for about 2 weeks – no difference.<br />Oil consumption about 1 liter per 3 500 km (Castrol 10W40). Engine starts up within ¼ of a second regardless of the temperature, weather. Oil change every 4 000 km.<br />For many years I have had this: when engine is cold it stalls after about 10 sec, without any previous symptoms (like hesitation). When at red lights and engine hot, it starts to slightly hesitate after a while – sometime it stalls. Starts up within 1/4 of a second. During street driving (say 60-70 km/h) sometime engine has a hiccup – if this happens at night, I can see yellow CHECK ENGINE light blinks for a fraction of a second.<br />It used to accelerate unexpectedly when cold – I disconnected idle air motor, drilled out the protective cap above the idle stop screw and raised up the hot idle to 1100 RPM. The A/C is off. It still has annoying unintended acceleration when engine cold, driving very slowly and applying the gas pedal very gently. I assure you it is not my jerky foot, nor sticking throttle or cable. When releasing the gas pedal, it slows down much more than it should. When applying the gas again – it accelerates more than it should. This is at 10-15 km/h, at 1200-1400 rpm. <br />I replaced PCM at about 60 000 km because starting one day the coolant fans started to be constantly ON, even when engine was cold and A/C was off.<br />Sometime BCM (Body Control Module) out of the blue, looks up all 4 doors. Sometime it happens once in a month, sometime twice a day within 5 min of city driving.<br />PCM Error codes: 12 and 55 (using ignition key “dancing routine”).<br />Any clues?<br />Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12913134937849054347noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1405576651020920367.post-41404104068806449742018-06-22T16:53:37.721-07:002018-06-22T16:53:37.721-07:00Ever had 1 smoke and eExhaust come out the coolant...Ever had 1 smoke and eExhaust come out the coolant reservoir I believe it’s just the intake manifold I hopeAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08279905561574115283noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1405576651020920367.post-22064537013012279402018-06-13T07:54:14.376-07:002018-06-13T07:54:14.376-07:00Sorry for additional comment, but this is also jus...Sorry for additional comment, but this is also just below the head gasket location and from reading another post above it could be "worst case scenario" a cracked block.<br /><br />The coolant flows out under just simply engine running, not a full temperature or with the overflow reservoir cap removed...<br /><br />Just starting the car when cold results in coolant flow.Tomashttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04275848348715335527noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1405576651020920367.post-50360151112040864652018-06-13T07:42:55.725-07:002018-06-13T07:42:55.725-07:00Hi Bernard, thank you for all your very helpful in...Hi Bernard, thank you for all your very helpful info I've got a 2010 Journey with the 3.5 in it. <br /><br />I'm having steady coolant flow from what looks like a bolt or drain hole just above the transmission housing where it mates to the left side of the engine. I can't find a source other than this hole. Could this be the notorious o-ring and heater tube? Have an OEM repair manual and can't seem to find any reference to this tube in the manual. If N<br />not the o-ring and tube, any other suggestions?<br /><br />Thanks in advance for your help!<br /><br />Cheers,<br />TomasTomashttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04275848348715335527noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1405576651020920367.post-91037995876398000922018-01-11T17:33:00.784-08:002018-01-11T17:33:00.784-08:00I'm allowing your uninformed comment Zorn. Woo...I'm allowing your uninformed comment Zorn. Woopie do, you're one of a tiny number of people who have not had trouble. Please folks, if you're thinking of buying one of these hand-grenades with the pin pulled, just Google the 2.7, 3.2, and 3.5 engine troubles for yourself. If you think Zorn knows what he's commenting about, go and get yourself one. Then, you can join the other over three hundred here, who know better... the hard way. Good luck. The heater tube mess with the crappy o-ring caused coolant loss, and engine destruction on countless cars, just as a small example. Check into the undersized oil passages for another engine destroying albatross... or... be smart, and stay away from these engines at all costs.BernardLhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09722619048888613647noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1405576651020920367.post-36073248071455827852018-01-11T15:46:50.942-08:002018-01-11T15:46:50.942-08:00Five years later but I'm tired of hearing igno...Five years later but I'm tired of hearing ignorant,ill-informed people. - The 2.7, 3.2 and 3.5 liter engines are NOT based on any Mitsu engine.<br />They are all Mopar. <br />But yes the whole water pump/timing belt situation is a crappy design.<br />However, once you've done that maintenance, the 3.5 will go 200K + miles for you :)Zornhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15862634212011211557noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1405576651020920367.post-24147358536428042012017-07-21T05:59:11.607-07:002017-07-21T05:59:11.607-07:00Rob. The only way to know for sure is to do a comp...Rob. The only way to know for sure is to do a compression check. BernardLhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09722619048888613647noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1405576651020920367.post-28067648584844926502017-07-20T14:44:56.264-07:002017-07-20T14:44:56.264-07:00Finished the R/R of the timing belt, buttoned it u...Finished the R/R of the timing belt, buttoned it up and started the car, Code p1776 is the only code the scanner finds, rough idle, stalls. Is this what you meant by bent valves, a loss of power at idle?Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10195221014207991708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1405576651020920367.post-76775125892706341642017-07-16T19:29:58.434-07:002017-07-16T19:29:58.434-07:00No, Rob, I can't. You need not only factory di...No, Rob, I can't. You need not only factory directions, you need the holding tool for the twin cams. Believe me, if you were on the road when the timing belt went, you'll have bent valves in that thing.BernardLhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09722619048888613647noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1405576651020920367.post-66720088719350546142017-07-16T13:40:13.828-07:002017-07-16T13:40:13.828-07:00There's no creaminess under the oil cap. I rec...There's no creaminess under the oil cap. I recognize your suggestion -- but saying that I was still going to try and figure this out, the question about the direction to rotate the Drivers side cam, which is currently 180 degrees off still stands. <br /><br />If it was at 90, the nearest timing mark would be counter-clockwise, and if it were 270 the nearest would be clockwise, but right at 180 I'm not sure which way to go. Could you offer any insight as to the direction to turn? Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10195221014207991708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1405576651020920367.post-87856202259885714532017-07-16T13:33:09.487-07:002017-07-16T13:33:09.487-07:00It's a 2000 Dodge Intrepid 3.2L with 120K, the...It's a 2000 Dodge Intrepid 3.2L with 120K, the water pump was the original mopar. Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10195221014207991708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1405576651020920367.post-18156803731227795182017-07-15T17:27:37.029-07:002017-07-15T17:27:37.029-07:00You're in way over your head with whatever veh...You're in way over your head with whatever vehicle you have, which you never mentioned, Rob. You need a factory manual to work on those shoe-horned engines. Check the underside of the oil filler cap. If it has coffee colored creaminess as mention hundreds of times in this comment section, cut your losses, and get rid of it. If there's no moisture or creaminess on the underside of the oil cap, it probably won't matter because you were driving it when the timing belt failed. That means bent valves. The 2.7L, 3.2L, and 3.5L Chrysler engines are hand grenades waiting for the pin to be pulled. Yours has been pulled. Dump it.BernardLhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09722619048888613647noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1405576651020920367.post-10180119599233254612017-07-15T15:48:51.233-07:002017-07-15T15:48:51.233-07:00I should have noted, the first sign of trouble was...I should have noted, the first sign of trouble was the coolant tank cap seal had melted and I added new rubber to cap the tank. This worked for a while and I bought a new tank and installed it, thinking that the problem was with the cap leaking under pressure causing the car to overheat. The first full run after installing the tank the car overheated 14miles from the house, I went to pick it up but after waiting for it to cool down it failed to restart. Tow back to house, the next replacements were the cam shaft sensor and I was about to replace the crankshaft sensor when I checked for spark. No spark so I dis-assembled the timing belt cover and confirmed no timing belt. Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10195221014207991708noreply@blogger.com